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Second life
Jours barbares: Une vie de surf
by William Finnegan · POINTS · libro de bolsillo · 600 pages
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Pages: 600 pagesAuthor: William FinneganPublisher: POINTSFormat: libro de bolsilloLanguage: frRelease date: 7/6/2018ISBN: ISBN 9782757871317
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Synopsis of Jours barbares: Une vie de surf
Sumérgete en la apasionante autobiografía de William Finnegan, donde narra su vida dedicada al surf, desde sus inicios en Hawái y California hasta la búsqueda de olas perfectas en rincones remotos del planeta. Más que un simple deporte, el surf se convierte en un arte de vivir, una escapatoria y una fuente de asombro que lo aleja de las vanidades del mundo. Esta edición de Points ofrece una inolvidable oda a la infancia, la amistad y la familia, todo ello envuelto en la épica de las olas y la cultura del surf.
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About the author
William Finnegan
William Finnegan is a staff writer at The New Yorker and the author of works of international journalism. He has specially addressed issues of racism and conflict in Southern Africa and politics in Mexico and South America, as well as poverty among youth in the United States, and is well known for his writing on surfing.
Born in 1952Since 201718 titles published9 writing
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